The spectacular 2009 Calabrone puts an international face on a motley collection of indigenous grapes. Calabrone means “hornet” in Italian and this blend of 70% Refosco, 10% Schioppettino, 10% Pignolo and 10% Merlot leaves its sting in a good way. Some of the grapes (Refosco and Schioppettino) are air-dried for one month and all varieties are aged separately in new French oak from 18 to 24 months. Sweet blackberry and prune open the bouquet with deep spice and tobacco. There’s a chewy note of jammy fruit on the close. The workmanship is impressive here. Drink: 2015-2022. A rock star winery with international pedigree (proprietors are culinary celebrities Joe and Lidia Bastianich), Bastianich has played an important role in raising the profile of quality Friuli wines around the world. Their offerings are always impeccably made and equal emphasis is placed on both reds and whites. Importer: Dark Star Imports, www.darkstarimports.com