The 2006 RESERVA ALTANO is 80% Touriga Franca, the rest Touriga Nacional, aged for 10 months in American oak casks. As has been the case with this bottling, it seems drenched in American oak, laced with coconut and vanilla nuances to the point where it can be hard to find the fruit, particularly in its youth when the oak has no chance to integrate. It is hollow in the mid-palate and lacking the good structure some other vintages have shown. If you like this style, which might remind people more of Penfold’s than the Douro, it isn’t bad but given the 2006 vintage difficulties, you might consider saving some bucks and picking up the 2007 regular Altano, which is the current regular release reviewed this issue. It has no more depth, but the balance between fruit and oak is far better. Drink now-2012. Importer: Vineyard Brands, 2000 Resource Drive, Birmingham, AL 35242, 205-980-8802

A lean, structured wine, with dense tannins, jammy fruit and dark berry flavors. The wood comes through strongly, offering high spice, and giving the wine a dry core.——R.V.(9/1/2008)—— 87