When I visited in early December, Lamy told me that his 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Haute Densité had fermented especially slowly, and it was correspondingly reticent on the nose. Medium to full-bodied, intense and searingly incisive, with massive reserves of concentration and structuring dry extract, its potential, however, was impossible to miss on the palate. Fortunately, for a wine like this, tasting notes are somewhat academic, as readers will know to buy any of Lamy's Haute Densité wines that they are offered and ask questions later, but I will try to revisit this from bottle in due course.