The 2007 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is one of the more ethereal, tightly-wound wines in this line-up of 2007s. High toned red berries, flowers, mint and minerals walk a tightrope of fine yet firm tannins. There is an energy and vibrancy to the Calderara Sottana that I find incredibly appealing. The bright red fruit recalls a Barbaresco from the Ovello vineyard. Minty, floral notes reappear on the delicate, finessed finish. This is a fabulous wine readers will not want to miss. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Marc de Grazia is one of the pioneers of the Etna. Not only was he among the first producers to recognize the value of these once-forgotten, ancient terroirs, he also was the first producer to bring attention to the specific qualities of these vineyards by bottling single-parcel Nerellos that have become reference-point wines for the Etna. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The Calderara Sottana cru delivers wines with a more noticeable mineral presence. You’ll get volcanic nuances of ash, smoke and slate backed by delicate flowers and small berry fruit. There’s also a charming touch of rusticity here (especially evident in the wine’s powerful, alcoholic finish), but that’s what we liked about it.——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 93