The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Cerbaiole confirms Salvioni’s heavyweight status. A deep, blackish ruby/garnet, its potent and ample nose launches sweet and penetrating aromas of plum and raspberry fruit, tar and chocolate. The dense and concentrated flavors, almost chewable in their concentration and texture, are supple and velvety, the flow and continuity unending and seamless. Moreover, the force and grip on the finish are stunning. The classic iron fist in a velvet glove. Drink: 2005-2016. Two secrets of the estate’s success are wife Mirella Salvioni, a terror with the pruning shears, and the inspired winemaking of Attilio Pagli, who made his first great wine here in 1985 at the age of 23.Giulio Salvioni, alias Mr. Consistency, has not made a disappointing wine since he started in 1985. Tasting his 1989, 1992, and 1996 Brunello di Montalcino, off-vintages for almost everyone else, is a textbook lesson in just what commitment to quality means. No one in the appellation except for Gianfranco Soldera has a more distinguished record over this period.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0262