The exquisite 2007 Calvert Pinot Noir displays immense purity and definition on the nose, blackberry leaf and raspberry with a touch of smoke. There is a real succulence on the palate, lovely flesh texture, good acidity, ripe raspberry, wild strawberry and red cherry. Primal but very expressive and it should age gracefully. I met proprietor Nigel Greening in London back in 2008 for a first peek at his new releases just before he moved permanently to New Zealand and then re-tasted some of the wines in Central Otago during the Pinot Noir Celebration and again at regional tastings. As expected, winemaker Blair Walter continues to produce a very Burgundian style of Pinot Noir that prioritizes elegance and finesse over power and concentration. Although their Pinot Noirs hog the limelight (deservedly so), their excellent Chardonnay and Rieslings should not be ignored. Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd., St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661; fax (707) 963-8566.

Only the second released vintage of this wine for Felton Road, and already the improvement is noticeable. The black cherry fruit is bold, the vanilla-laced oak assertive, and the overall impression is one of power rather than nuance. Maybe that will come with age.——J.C.(12/1/2008)—— 90