Purchased from the same source that supplies Latour's Montrachet, the 2017 Volnay 1er Cru En Chevret bursts with attractive aromas of licorice, sweet cherry fruit, forest floor and cassis. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and generous, with an open-knit core of ripe fruit, succulent acids and fine tannins. It's one of the high points of the portfolio.