The 2008 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is drop-dead gorgeous. Mocha, smoke, tar, grilled herbs and black fruit emerge from the glass, followed by a dense core of fruit, all wrapped around a firm, tannic frame. The finish is intense and very much closed in on itself at this stage. Once again, Le Serre Nuove is simply fabulous. Sometimes I think it may be too good, as the rationale for paying the premium for Ornellaia doesn’t make any sense at all when the second wine is this outstanding. The 2008 is a Serre Nuove that will need another few years in bottle for the tannins to soften, but its potential seems clear at this stage. It is every bit as impressive as it was when I tasted it for the first time last year. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

Offers so much on the nose, with cassis, currant and blueberry aromas. Full-bodied, with juicy, velvety tannins and a very long finish. A lovely combination of ripe fruit and toasty oak. Best after 2011.??–JS??Region: Italy / Bolgheri Select to Add

This dark and concentrated blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) offers generous fullness and a full bouquet comprised of spice, mature fruit, cherry, blackberry and leather aromas. The wine is made in a friendly, approachable style and can be consumed immediately thanks to the soft plushness and richness of the tannins.——M.L.(2/1/2012)—— 93