The 2004 Barolo Cannubi (magnum) is a fat, rich red bursting with layers of dark fruit, tobacco, herbs, earthiness and autumn leaves. Here, too, the pedigree of the vintage comes through in spades. This is a truly beautiful, multi-dimensional wine graced with considerable complexity, tons of perfume and exceptional harmony. Enticing scents of truffle and earthiness linger on the finish. To be released circa 2014. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I came away impressed with the wines I tasted at Ceretto this year. Like many estates in Piedmont, Ceretto is moving back towards a greater use of large casks. The 2006 Barolos were fermented 10-15 days in stainless steel, followed by malolactic fermentation and anywhere from 24 to 30 months’ aging in French oak. Beginning with the 2007s, the Barolos spent about 16 months in French oak followed by a full year in cask. I also had a chance to taste Ceretto’s new Barolo from the storied Cannubi vineyard, a tiny production of just 550 magnums per year from a parcel of a quarter of a hectare the family purchased in 2002. At press time prices for the 2006 Barolos had not been determined.Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661