From bottle, the 2017 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru wafts from the glass with pretty aromas of cassis, cherries, black tea, rose petals and spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a textural attack, a fleshy, succulent core of fruit and a pure and expansive finish. Open-knit and charming, the wine's powdery, melting tannins are largely concealed. This is a generous, head-turning Clos de Bèze that delivers immense pleasure, albeit comparatively little in the way of profundity.