Representing four barrels worth of Refene (from the north edge of town; “similar to Epenots but less well-exposed,” says Laurent) and three from Saussilles (a stony, chalky site bordering Clos des Mouches) the 2005 Pommard 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes offers another meaty, saltily mineral expression of Pinot, combined with bitter black fruits and chocolate, and laced with pungent suggestions of raw ginger and horseradish. This lean, bright and penetratingly long wine is less obviously dense than its village counterpart but more interesting not to say striking. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808