This modern winery is turning out stunning values. The 1998 Greco (from the grape of the same name) offers a white fruit-scented nose, medium body, excellent freshness, a lively personality, and a fleshy, moderately long finish. It sees no wood, and is all the better for it. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620