The 2009 Fiano di Avellino Pietracalda combines textural richness and varietal expression in a rich, generous style of Fiano. The wine caresses the palate with fruit all the way through to the vivid, enveloping finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Feudi di San Gregorio is one of the leaders in the modern-day Renaissance of Campanian oenology. Readers who want to learn more about the estate's history may want to reference my article 'The Noble Wines of Southern Italy' in Issue 190, which also includes verticals of the estate's flagships Serpico and Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the new release of the Riserva this year. For ease of reference I have included my note on Feudi's Aglianico del Vulture here, although the wine is, of course, from Basilicata.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Pietracalda (which translates into “hot rock”) seems indeed to release aromas of sunbaked granite or river stone over lush background tones of peach, pear and yellow lemon zest. There’s a drying, polished feel in the mouth with a touch of bitter almond on the close. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 90