A new value from Moosbrugger is his 2005 Zweigelt Gobelsburger. Exuding the typical sweet cherry fruit of this varietal, along with notes of blueberry, leather, resin, and wood smoke, this offers considerably more complexity than one would expect at the price. Faintly grainy in texture, this continues to pump an ample supply of red fruit and smoky, resinous nuances into its finish. While it’s a bit early to report on other 2005 reds from this address, I simply can’t resist. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300