The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes was hard to read from barrel, but it has developed beautifully and showed very well indeed from bottle. Mingling aromas of yellow orchard fruit, orange oil and clear honey with hints of oatmeal and dried white flowers, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a blockier, more muscular profile than the suave Genevrières, built around racy acids and chalky structuring dry extract. This is a great Charmes in the making, though it will require patience.