There are only microscopic quantities available of this wine, so I will keep my tasting notes somewhat streamlined, even though it merits a near perfect score. Le Macchiole's Scrio is the most profound Syrah being made in Italy. Unfined and unfiltered, and produced from incredibly tiny yields, the black/purple-colored 1998 offers scents of licorice, melted tar, truffles, and blackberry liqueur. Full-bodied and opulent, with high tannin but compelling sweetness, and a multilayered palate, it requires 3-4 years of cellaring, but should age for two decades. It could easily compete with some of the Rhone Valley's great Hermitages. This is a prodigious wine. It is a shame quantities are so limited. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620