From a parcel that neighbors Domaine Leflaive's the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of white flowers, Meyer lemon, mandarin oil, pastry cream and pear. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny textured and multidimensional, more enveloping but less dense than the Batard, while more controlled and delineated than the Criots. Succulent and long, it's a superb Montrachet that I would have loved to spend more time with.