The 2008 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito is dark, inviting and exceptionally polished. The big tannins are there, but here there is so much sheer density in the fruit that the wine's structural components are barely noticeable. This shows marvelous intensity all the way through to the dark, harmonious finish. Licorice, tar, and smoke add the final dimensions of complexity. The Santo Spirito was aged in a combination of French oak barrique, tonneau and cask, in roughly equal proportions. This is one of the more sensual of the 2008s here. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119