From over 60 year old vines high up in Le Charlemagne, Girardin’s 2006 Le Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne displays yet more density, a bit more new wood, but also more textural and flavor richness than his “regular” cuvee. One’s palate is suffused with citrus, talcum, and crushed stone. This is backward and a bit lacking in clarity and elegance when compared at the same stage with many of the best Corton Charlemagne bottlings of the vintage, but it is nonetheless highly impressive and promising of 8-10 years of positive bottle evolution. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.