The 2009 St. Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, from the Puligny side of the villages, is more immediate than some of the other wines in this lineup. Layers of expressive fruit grace the palate in this radiant, plush St. Aubin. This is an excellent choice for near-term drinking. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. This is a fabulous set of wines from Olivier Lamy. From top to bottom, I can't think of a single wine I wouldn't be thrilled to drink. Lamy began harvesting on September 7. The 2009s spent approximately twelve months in barrel and six months in steel. I also tasted through a number of the 2010s. Some of the wines were still in malo, but those that were not, including the Clos de Meix, Derriere Chez Edouard, En Remilly and Chatenieres, were all very promising. Simply put, I can't recommend these wines highly enough. A Becky Wasserman Selection, -Le Serbet,- imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Gun smoke and citrus aroma. Vivacious palate with intense citrus fruit and a pure and ringing finish woven with fine chalky minerality. Drink: From 2012.