The Rousseau 2006 Chambertin offers a gorgeous bouquet of roses, fresh cherry, nutmeg, and anise. Not at all weighty, it however offers caressing refinement of texture and luscious fluidity of well-concentrated red fruits and liquid floral perfume. Subtly smoky, meaty undertones gain prominence as the wine takes on air, and ineffable mineral notes emerge, too, as this finishes with lift, refinement, intricate interactive complexity, and lip-smacking generosity, yet not without an aura of mystery appropriate to this great site. No doubt the results will be worth following for a dozen or more years. Since Eric Rousseau – as mentioned in my issue 170 run-down of his methodology – does not on principle utilize a sorting table, I imagined the aftermath of hail in 2006 presenting a special challenge to his pickers and to bottled quality, but it was one he and his team clearly surmounted. Clos de Beze, Griotte-, and Chapelle-Chambertin were the worst-effected, relates Rousseau, along with numerous of his village-level parcels. Potential alcohol levels are closer to 2003's record highs than they are to those of 2005, but the finished 2006s – while hardly as successful as their immediate predecessors – do not suffer any spirituous roughness or heat, and are thus free to effectively make their relatively light, bright, and in the best instances distinctive statements. Rousseau reports – and my limited opportunities for comparison confirm – that the initially rather austere and even brittle, disjointed personalities of these wines were ameliorated in the course of elevage, and the best of them have blossomed beautifully. (I was unable to taste several top wines here after bottling, so my notes on those are based on a representative sampling and blending from cask shortly before bottling.) Importer: Frederic Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700