The Boillot 2007 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet perpetuates the saline, briny, chalky themes broached by the corresponding Les Referts, along with bitterness of citrus pip and fruit pit that are nicely embedded in a subtly silken-textured yet brightly citric palate context. The finish here is about as bracing and ultra-mineral, implacably chalky and invigoratingly citric and saline as one can imagine, as such epitomizing its author’s ideals for the vintage. Fans of dry Riesling or Chablis (or simply those needing a good slap in the cheeks) should especially check this out over the next 3-4 years. Jean-Marc Boillot is now operating out of a re-modeled cellar and with a sophisticated new bottling line. His early harvest date in 2006 had been explicable on any number of levels, not least his personal preference for refreshment and minerality (as reflected in his love of classic – i.e., the presently endangered sort of – dry Alsace Riesling). But Boillot picked early in 2007, too – on August 28, no less, and for only 5 days – again citing his desire to retain acidity, and adding that encroaching botrytis was also a concern. “I think my 2007s will evolve a bit like 2004,” he predicts, “which gained volume in their elevage and in bottle and are proportional, not massive” making clear that both collections reflect his ideals. But he was clearly out to assist this process by having been strict about settling his musts, but then “done lots of batonnage.” Potential alcohols at harvest were in the low 12s and even after chaptalization, none of the finished wines reach 13%. Importers: A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802