The 2004 Falerno del Massico Camarato (Aglianico) is silky and finessed on the palate, where layers of perfumed dark fruits, violets, ash, minerals and French oak all make an appearance. Medium in body, the wine possesses superb balance capped off with a sweet, resonating finish. This is an especially refined red from Campania. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2024. Falerno had already established itself as a special place for wines 3,000 years ago during Roman times. Campania was not immune to phylloxera, however, and at the turn of the century most of the vineyards in these parts were ravaged. In the 1970s Francesco Avallone set out to reclaim the ancient clones of the region's native varieties, and over time reproduced the best of those and planted them in his vineyards. Today Villa Matilde is run by Avallone's children Maria Ida and Tani Avallone. The wines are among Campania's finest.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Camarato is a beautiful wine and the 2004 vintage shows impressive harmony and elegance. The wine opens with aromas of chocolate, black cherry and spice. In the mouth, it shows firm, enduring tannins. Pair it with a succulent steak. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 91