The 2006 Block 3 Pinot Noir vanquished all opposition at a comprehensive blind comparison of Central Otago Pinot Noirs. A bewitching nose of red cherry, raspberry, lavender and honey, the palate is blessed with a natural sense of balance and elegance, building towards a crescendo of vibrant red-berried fruits on the finish that has great delineation and poise. A bottle should be delivered on every doorstep in the Cote d’Or! Feted as one of New Zealand’s best producers and justifiably so, in my opinion, for time and time again Felton Road’s wines triumph against all-comers. Located in Bannockburn, Central Otago, its vineyards nestle on a gentle north-facing slope between 200m and 335m and overshadowed by 2,000m mountains, their micro-climate benefits from low humidity, wide diurnal temperature variation and high sunshine hours. Although not yet certified, winemaker Blair Walter told me that they apply biodynamics to all the vineyards and benefit from a three-tier, gravity-flow winery and use wild yeasts as standard. I tasted their current portfolio at the winery with many turning up in blind tastings, as well as a comprehensive Block 3 vertical that will appear separately. The Pinots usually include some whole bunches depending upon the vintage, fermented in small open-top vessels and matured in oak of which around 30% is new. They mature for between 12 and 18 months and are bottled without fining or filtering. “Calvert” is a joint-venture with the fruit shared by Pyramid Valley Estate and Craggy Range Importer: Wilson Daniels Ltd, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661, fax: (707) 963-8566

This Pinot has a pleasantly minty / menthol character over a good intensity of ripe red berry fruit and a touch of cinnamon. Pure and crisp on the palate, it has medium-firm grainy tannins, a medium body and very good persistence.

Full-bodied and well-structured, this is the rare New Zealand Pinot that warrants cellaring for a few years prior to enjoyment. Dusty earth, cedar, cola and plum notes mingle easily, but seem a bit reined in. Shows good length, auguring well for improvement over the next five years. Drink 2010-2018.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 91