With the 2004 Gruner Veltliner Lamm we have arrived at 14.5% alcohol, and the sweet aromas alone announces the advanced degree of ripeness achieved here. Melon and rhubarb fruit impressively fill out the mouth and extend to a peppery, smoked meat and stewed rhubarb finish that evinces some warmth. Despite what the name might lead you to imagine, a lamb this wine decidedly is not. Time may tame it or even turn it into a ravishing beauty: this is a wine that has certainly surprised me in some previous vintages. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300