The superb 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru exhibits a youthfully reserved bouquet of lemon oil, white flowers, smoky reduction and wet stones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and phenolic, with chewy extract and almost tannic structure, that is more in keeping with a red wine, rather than a white. Long, focused and incisive, it's a mineral expression of Corton-Charlemagne that's built for the cellar.