Coming from the warmest terroir on Hermitage Hill, the 2006 Ermitage le Meal is a killer wine that oozes Hermitage notes of black raspberries, saddle leather and bloody meat. Complex, full-bodied, and textured, yet with surprising elegance, it’s an awesome wine to drink anytime over the coming two decades.

From a warm micro-climate, Le Meal, (Michel Chapoutier says that the full phenolic maturity of the Syrah grapes at Le Meal can be achieved three weeks earlier than the grapes grown on the top of the appellation in the l’Ermite vineyard. Keep in mind that these two areas are within a ten minute walk of each other. This explains the French obsession with terroir, and how micro-climates can vary so dramatically.), the 2006 Ermitage Le Meal exhibits surprisingly tart acidity for a wine from such a warm site, a dense purple color, and sweet notes of boysenberries, black raspberries, blackberries, lead pencil shavings, pain grille, and spice. Medium to full-bodied, elegant, and lighter than Les Greffieux, it is tight and closed at present, but it displays the potential for 20-25 years of evolution. While Michel Chapoutier produces some of the world’s greatest wines from single parcels of old vines spread throughout the northern and southern Rhone (see my ecstatic reviews of his 2007 and 2006 Chateauneuf du Papes in issue #179), he also has an impressive portfolio of value-priced wines that are often over-looked when this impressive producer is discussed. Following are some top-notch picks that all sell for exceptionally fair prices. Chapoutier has not achieved as great as success in Cornas as he has in the other northern Rhone appellations, although his Cornas wines get better with each vintage. There are four extraordinary single vineyard white wines, all of which are among the greatest dry white wines of the world. While all of them can be drunk young, they are meant for extended cellaring. Made from very small yields, they represent the essence of a varietal as well as a vineyard site. As the following notes demonstrate, 2006 was one of the greatest vintages for white wines at Chapoutier. The single vineyard selection parcellaire red wines range in production from 500 to nearly 1,000 cases. 2007 is a very good vintage for these selections, but 2006 has an edge. It is reminiscent of 1996 because of the wines’ freshness and acid levels, but Chapoutier’s 2006s are even more concentrated than his 1996s. Chapoutier’s four 2006 cuvees of single vineyard Hermitage are exquisite. Most of the yields were between 10 and 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines are extravagantly rich. The 2006 and 2007 luxury cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape Croix des Bois and Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac were reviewed in issue #179. They are all astounding wines, especially in 2007Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

Superdense but really fresh, with a wild array of zesty blackberry, loganberry, linzer torte and briar notes laid over perfectly embedded tannins. Long and pure through the finish, with lots of minerality waiting in reserve. Great length. Best from 2010 through 2025. 511 cases made.??–JM??Region: France / Northern Rh?ne / Ermitage Select to Add

4 Although 2006 won’t go down as a great vintage in the northern Rhone, Chapoutier’s selections parcellaires are still top notch. Le Meal gets the nod this year as the most powerful of the group, with massive espresso and black olive elements tinged with meat and underlain by a bed of ripe blueberries. Long and mouthwatering on the finish, look for this wine to approach maturity by 2016; drink well through 2025 or longer. ——J.C.(2/1/2011)—— 95