Almost confectionary in its nose of marzipan, vanilla, and nut brittle, the Gambal 2006 Meursault Clos du Cromin then comes to the palate with toasted nut and citrus that reflect much less sense of sweetness than the nose leads one to expect. This offers an excellent balance between richness and juicy primary fruit brightness. Esterous and voluminous in finish (powered by 14.8% alcohol) it evinces a bit of bitterness, gum-numbing and heat, problems that more seriously afflicted a Chassagne-Montrachet and premier cru St.-Aubin in this year’s collection. American Alex Gambal (about whom more can be found in issue 171) is gradually expanding his negociant activities while managing to purchase some excellent acreage as well. His 2006 collection in white at times reveals in high alcohol and heat the dangers of this vintage’s precipitant ripeness, but strikingly low pH by vintage standards helps in many cases to keep the wines lively and bright. Various importers

A mix of butterscotch and vanilla graces the apricot and grapefruit flavors in this ripe, rich white, which turns more elegant and citrusy on the finish, leaving a mouthwatering impression. Drink now through 2014. 150 cases made.??–BS??Region: France / Burgundy / Meursault Select to Add