A 2006 Volnay Santenots – incorporating fruit from the young vines of the monopole Clos de Santenots – represents another Prieur bottling based on pathetically low post-triage yields. Cinnamon-tinged ripe cherry in the nose are carried over to a palpably dense yet finely-grained palate with chalk dust, iodine, salt, black pepper and cherry pit notes persisting in an impressively palate-staining, savory, and invigorating finish. Enologist Nadine Gublin reports that the Prieur team performed a severe triage of 2006 Pinot – especially from the Cote de Beaune – both in the vineyards and on tables. The fine results speak for themselves, boasting (with one exception) purity of fruit and complexity, as well as a range of distinctively 2006 virtues. Their Chambertin – which, like the wine from their other grand crus, had been assembled but not yet bottled when I last tasted them – presented a special challenge due to the degree to which the Prieur parcels were damaged by hail, and a decision was made to declassify even the small amount of fruit that was vinified. The Pinot crop was harvested at 12.5-13.5% potential alcohol; required no adjustment; and was all destemmed. The wines were (or will for the most part have been) lightly plaque-filtered. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700