Quick to spot in a blind tasting, the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Luce is easily the boldest and richest wine of the year. It’s a miracle that this high level of extraction was achieved, given the delicate state of Sangiovese’s fatigued skins at the end of the difficult 2009 growing season. Hats off to winemaker Niccolo D’Afflitto and his team. Brunello Luce opens to a brooding black color and massive aromas of cherry liqueur, dark chocolate, baking spice and chewing tobacco. That said, this edition of the wine doesn’t show the irresistible softness and decadence of 2004 or 2007. The tannin delivers a distant touch of astringency or rawness (a consequence of high extract in 2009) and the mouthfeel is leaner and less nuanced overall. I look forward to returning to this bottle in a few years to check on its evolution. Drink: 2017-2023. Luce della Vite is the high-end brand created by the Frescobaldi family to highlight super Tuscan blends and more recently, Brunello di Montalcino. The Luce Brunello was unveiled ten years ago. The power, intensity and thick concentration on display throughout the line has always endeared these wines to an international consumer. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, www.foliowine.com