Very dark for Mencia, which indicates that it is an old-vines wine of pedigree. The nose is composed of cigar box, licorice gumdrop, balsam wood and berry fruit. In a word it’s hedonistic, and the richness and full-bodied berry and plum flavors may just bowl you over. It’s definitely more oaky than many, but it still qualifies as Bierzo at its most bountiful.——M.S.(11/1/2007)—— 92