My love affair with Jean-Fran?ois Coche's superb 2005 Meursault Les Rougeots continues, and every time I taste this wine, I think I have underrated it. Opening in the glass with lovely aromas of pears, buttered toast, citrus oil, sesame and flowers, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with terrific concentration, succulent acids and chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long and mineral finish. This is always a great cuvée, but in 2005, something special happened here.