Tart-edged blackberry and cassis inform the nose and palate of Duboeuf’s almost severely-concentrated 2010 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Rosiers (which I tasted from tank). Pungent herb and spice accents mingle with notes from the contingent of used barriques in which a small portion of this sojourned. There is invigorating dark berry tartness and focused intensity as well as an interesting stony undertone to this wine’s penetrating finish, and it should offer outstanding value for at least 3-4 years. Surprisingly, it resists roughness or any more obvious flavors of oak in a way that the corresponding 2009 did not. George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

7 Intense and rich wine, with touches of smoky wood, the tannins ripe, the acidity a refreshing balancing factor. With its cherry character, there is fruit already, but wait a year and this will be impressive. ——R.V.(10/1/2011)—— 91