The estate’s 2007 Pietradonice is surprisingly forward and fruity in this vintage. There isn’t a whole lot of varietal character, but attractive suggestions of strawberries and flowers framed by soft tannins follow through to the round, sensual finish. The 2007 Pietradonice should be ready to drink upon release. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. Proprietor Giacomo Neri makes some of the richest, most textured Brunellos readers will come across. The house style favors a lush expression of fruit with a softness that makes the wines very appealing upon release. In recent years the wines have become more elegant, with less of the excessive heaviness that characterized prior vintages. Based on what I tasted from barrel, future vintages hold quite a bit of promise as well. This year, readers – especially those on a budget (who isn’t on a budget these days?) should focus on the 2005 Brunello di Montalcino (sometimes also known as the ‘white label’), which is an overachiever because it includes fruit from the Cerretalto vineyard, the source of the estate’s top wine, which was not bottled in 2005. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405