The intriguing 2010 Coma Alta is a blend of 70% Garnacha Blanca and 30% Viognier from 12-year-old vines, aged in both 500- and 1,000-litre French oak. The nose is very subtle with traces of dried apricot and jasmine, while the palate has an attractive, ginger-tinged entry and a subtle, almost Zen-like middle that should “fatten up” with 3 to 4 years of bottle age. Drink 2014-2017. When proprietor Pere Rovira escorted us to a viewpoint to survey his unusually large 125-hectare estate located in Bellmunt de Priorat, just as dusk was falling, I could see little in the gloom. Still, it was nice to see the stars come out. Formerly known as Masia Baril until the Rovira family acquired it in 1998, the estate is home to 45 hectares of vine nestled amongst the olive groves and almond trees. Tasting back at the family house with his daughters Marta and Pilar, I found much to admire in their wines, which I felt were suffused with a sense of honesty and refreshing lack of pretension – wine to drink rather than stand back and admire. All vinifications from their multitude of parcels are completed separately and a blind tasting in December allocates “A,” “B” and “C” grades that are the basis from Clos Fonta (their flagship label predominantly old vines), Coma Vella (usually around 20% from old vines) and entry-level “Bellmunt” blends. Importer: C & P Wines, New York, NY; tel. (917) 846-1708