The 1973 Gran Reserva 890 spent eight years in American oak vats during which it was racked 15 times before spending another six years in bottle. The nose is so entrancing that you just want to sit down and weep (with pleasure). Dark cherries, black truffle, freshly picked mint, ox-tail and dried blood all blossom from the glass with stunning delineation. The palate does not quite match the brilliance of the aromatics. But it is imbued with life-affirming freshness: a ferrous entry with sour cherry, orange rind, allspice, white pepper and a touch of cedar towards the finish which has a soupcon of austerity, suggesting that there was some Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Drink now. Importer: various importers in the US, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Southern Wine & Spirits, www.southernwine.com, and The Country Vintner, Oilville, VA; tel. (800) 365-9463