The 2005 Norte is the first to show genuine freshness on the nose, with bright red currant, boysenberry and tobacco aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins and a firm backbone. Attractive cranberry, spice and cocoa notes interlace towards the slightly austere, but delineated finish. Overall, this constitutes a fine, bucolic Rioja that should be consumed over the next couple of years. Drink now-2014.

Opaque in color, with reduced aromas of mushroom, rubber and so forth. But do not give up on this masculine bruiser; it will loosen up with air and offer plum, leather and chocolate flavors that are nothing short of excellent. And while it’s a touch zesty at its core, the wine still mixes in enough coffee and richness to make it a modern-style success story.——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 92