Lafon’s got it right, his 2001 Meursault Desiree is awesome. Buttered pears and minerals are found in its nose. A wine of superb breadth, this seamless, medium-bodied offering coats the palate with ripe apples, spiced pears, and honeyed minerals. It is pure, powerful, and reveals a lengthy, flavorful finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Dominique Lafon is on fire, in a zone, on top of his game. He’s never made better wines, and he improves with each passing vintage. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel: (617) 731-6644; Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; (212) 625-2505; and Beaune Imports