Pale yellow-gold color. Apricot, minerals, hazelnut, truffle and a suggestion of buttered popcorn on the complex nose. Rich, broad and sweet; quite full without coming off as heavy. The leesy, truffley quality carries through on the palate, along with intriguing notes of green tropical fruits, minerals and sexy oak spices. Much more concentrated than the regular chardonnay bottling. A firm spine of acidity gives the finish a tactile quality and extends its flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, minerals and nutty lees. There's no rush to drink this, but it's perfect right now.

A comforting nose of vanilla toast, butter and a spin of citrus starts this venerable producer’s elegant Chardonnay. On the palate, the wine is creamy, with integrated fresh fruit and spice components, and offers a lingering, unctuous finish.——S.K.(3/1/2009)—— 89