The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also showing brilliantly from bottle, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, wild berries and plums mingled with notions of peonies, grilled squab, spices and musk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with good concentration and ripe acids, framed by an ample endowment of fine, powdery tannin that renders this more structured than the corresponding Amoureuses but not in any sense more austere. While this is quite charming and expressive for young Bonnes Mares, at least a decade's patience will be warranted.