The Coche-Dury 2007 Meursault I tasted – from the Vireuils Dessous – was, as usual, simply one he chose from among several lots of diverse vineyard origins that are not indicated on the label. Hints of smoke and toasted nuts combine with pineapple and grapefruit for an alluring aromatic display and bright, luscious palate, with less creaminess but far more cut and concentration than this year’s Bourgogne. Invigoratingly tart fruit skin and fresh citrus along with toasted almond and pistachio inform a lingering finish of a wine likely to please for at least 5-6 years. Jean-Francois Coche finished his 2007 Chardonnay harvest by mid-September, and of his whites were bottled in April. He characterizes the fruit as having been healthy, relatively high in malic acid, and easy to vinify, with alcohol levels (after very light but at this address routine chaptalization) between 12.5% and 13%. Coche is among many growers to not only draw the comparison with 2004, but to claim that this represents the only possible point of reference that even occurs to him. That said, he considers the 2007s slightly fruitier and more forward. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524