The ubiquitous "vieilles vignes" moniker seems to have lost some its luster because of its preponderance on wine shop shelves. Kudos to Valette for his honesty in the naming of his Macon-Chaintre Jeunes Vignes. Produced from 10 year old vines (in prior vintages this wine was sold to the negoce), it offers smoke and mineral aromas as well as a medium-bodied, oily-textured and well-balanced core of tangy citrus fruit. Drink it by 2001. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.