The 1978 Domaine de Chevalier continues to age immensely gracefully, exhibiting an impressively youthful hue and a complex bouquet of sweet berry fruit, cedar, coniferous forest floor, camphor and black truffle. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, it's elegant and precise, with melting tannins, lively acids and a long, sapid finish.

Along with the glorious 1970, this is my favorite vintage of Domaine de Chevalier during this decade. The 1978 has consistently been a textbook Graves with a tobacco-tinged, smoky, sweet, cedary, berry, and black currant-scented nose. It is still lusciously fruity, round, and generous. This medium-bodied, exceptionally stylish, elegant wine exhibits the exquisite levels of finesse Domaine de Chevalier can achieve without sacrificing flavor and concentration. Anticipated maturity: Now-2005. Last tasted 10/97