The classic Mouton lead-pencil, cedary nose has begun to emerge. This medium dark ruby, elegant, medium-bodied wine will never be a great or legendary Mouton. The flavors are ripe and moderately rich. With good depth and some firm tannins to resolve, this offering from Mouton is bigger and richer than the 1981, 1979, or 1978. Austere by the standards of Mouton and the vintage, the 1983 resembles the chateau's fine 1966. Anticipated maturity: Now-2015. Last tasted, 10/90.

Super-refined 1983 Bordeaux with an excellent deep ruby color and intense cigar-box, plum and berry aromas and flavors; there's even a hint of mint. It's full-bodied but very reserved in style with fine tannins and a seductively long finish. Better after 1997.--The Bordeaux 50. -JS