A full array of Indian spices accompany the deep, sweet black cherry fruit on the nose of Rouget’s 2005 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaumonts. Strongly-spiced black cherry and cassis saturate the palate, but so do unmistakably meaty, and truffly flavors. Carrying more fresh-berry tartness and kick to it than the village Vosne, this is less immediately appealing or flatteringly creamy. Tactile spiciness, bright fruit, an impressively lean (fat-free) meatiness, and chalky minerality inform the superbly long, oscillating finish. It shows real refinement and class already, but should really hit its stride after 5-7 years (and remain on form for at least twice that long). Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400