The 2007 Mater Matuta is another of the hidden gems of central Italy. This first-class effort emerges from the glass with layers of super-ripe raspberry jam, flowers, freshly cut roses, smoke and sweet spices in a full-bodied, unctuous style. The balance of richness and elegance here is nothing short of spectacular; in fact this is easily one of the finest reds being made today in Lazio. Needless today, it is hghly recommended. Mater Matuta is 85% Syrah and 15% Petit Verdot that was aged in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922

One of the best wines to emerge from Lazio (the region of the Italian capital), this innovative blend of Syrah and Petit Verdot (15%) offers penetrating aromas of leather, espresso bean, dark chocolate and black cherry. It would pair with Rome’s favorite pasta dishes including spaghetti carbonara.——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 90