Spices, gravel, and smoke can be detected in the nose of the 2001 Meursault-Perrieres. It does not have the flesh, opulence, and depth of Lafon’s finest 2001s, but it delivers loads of purity and elegance. Spiced minerals and candied lemons make up this delineated, refined wine’s character. Projected maturity: 2005-2010. Dominique Lafon is on fire, in a zone, on top of his game. He’s never made better wines, and he improves with each passing vintage. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel: (617) 731-6644; Daniel Johnnes/Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; (212) 625-2505; and Beaune Imports