The Volnay-Clos des Chenes possesses enough balance between fruit and structure. The deep ruby color is followed by a medium-bodied wine with a low PH (high acidity), a boatload of tannin, and a tight, structured, compact feel. There is a good mid-palate, sound ripeness, and some length, with the fruit and glycerin noticeable despite the tannin and acidity. Give this wine 2-4 years of cellaring and drink it over the following decade. This 17.8-acre estate owned by Richard Fontaine produces four-star white wines, but less exciting, more straightforward, competently made red wines. After tasting through the 1993 red wine offerings, only one wine, the Volnay-Clos des Chenes, merits attention. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (908) 225-9000