Layers of textured fruit wrap around the palate in what is a decidedly juicy style of Puligny. There isn't a ton of complexity in the glass, yet the wine impresses for its overall balance and sheer sense of harmony. The Champ Gain is one of the finest wines in this lineup, and arguably the best premier cru in the Domaine/Maison Olivier Leflaive range.

The 2010 Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles shows lovely focus and delineation. Ripe apricots, mint, nectarine and spices flesh out in a relatively broad-shouldered version of Pucelles. There is good intensity in the fruit, even if all the structural elements aren't quite put together, at least not yet. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Olivier Leflaive's domaine lineup will be getting a big boost in the next few years with the addition of parcels in Sous le Dos d-Ane, Pucelles, Folatieres, Chevalier-Montrachet, and Batard-Montrachet that previously were part of the Domaine Leflaive holdings. In addition, Olivier Leflaive continues with a negociant operation, whose wines are reviewed separately to avoid confusion. Overall, I find the Domaine Olivier Leflaive bottlings more interesting than the Maison wines. All of these 2010s are fairly open and accessible. The best wines may hold for some time, but I don't think cellaring will result in meaningfully more complexity. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

An airy, cool and ripe nose that is classic Pucelles features notes of honeysuckle, pear and citrus notes where the latter can also be found on the textured and lightly mineral-driven middle weight flavors that possess good richness and lovely intensity on the sappy and notably dry finish. This silky and again, exceptionally stylish e effort, is an understated wine of finesse. Lovely juice

Made from fruit sourced from vines close to Puligny's grand crus, this has some of the same structure and dense minerality as many of the village's best wines. It's vivid, upfront and rich with boisterous fruitiness. The structure will take many years to round out.