A beguiling bouquet redolent of licorice, smoke, spice and graphite leads to expressive fruit as the 2010 Puligny-Montrachet opens up in the glass. The fruit is a bit richer, deeper and more complex than in the Chassagne villages, with layers of yellow peach and nectarine that are woven into the enveloping finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a solid set of wines from Olivier Leflaive's negociant operation. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700